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The Best Mail-Order Picks for 2004, from Marian Burros Listen to this feature (How to listen) Throughout the year, New York Times columnist Marian Burros browses hundreds of gourmet food websites, ordering products from those that intrigue. She tastes all, probably devours some, and culls the best of the best for her annual list of holiday mail-order foods. Here are some of her picks for 2004. Fresh Alaskan King Salmon: In the dead of winter comes a tiny catch from the Yakutat peninsula of southeastern Alaska. Small and pricey it may be, but succulent king salmon at this time of year is the height of luxury. It is $209.95 for about five pounds, shipping included. Chefshop.com Homemade Cookies: Choose any or all: there isn't a disappointment in the lot. These cookies are the work of an excellent baker who has a day job as a political consultant. A gift box of 36 old favorites should include caramel grahams and oatmeal raisin: $40. Two dozen brownies in triple chocolate, chocolate mint, toffee and coffee: $45. Marla's Magic Rice Pudding: Who knew you could get rice pudding delivered from a shop that sells nothing but rice puddings? These insanely rich versions go beyond anything your mother (or mine) ever made: nursery food for grown-ups. Try Understanding Vanilla, Property of Lemon Poppy and Endangered Maple, or my favorite, called Man-Made Mascarpone, with sun-dried cherries. A 40-ounce container that serves five is $45 (including shipping). Additional containers are $30 each. Rice to Riches Fruit Conserves: Everything from the June Taylor Company is beyond special: apricot conserve, 8 ounces for $10; Santa Rosa plum, 8 ounces for $10; sour cherries in eau de vie syrup, 13 ounces for $25. The apricots and plums are spiked with citrus juices that enhance their intensity; the cherries turn ordinary ice cream into a delicacy. The Still Room Latte Frother: The Primo frother is Marian's favorite kitchen equipment find of the year. For $19.95 ($28.20 including shipping), you can foam up milk for mocha or cappuccino, or just for drinking because you love foamed milk. This little gizmo runs on two AA batteries, so you can take it anywhere. Great for children old enough to promise not to polka-dot the kitchen with milk when they use it. Bonjour, Inc.
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