Lynne's Olive Oil Picks
December 9, 2006

'Tis the time of year for the olive oil fanatic's dilemma. The best ones are dated, because oil is in prime condition the first year of its life, then it fades. Here is the dilemma: the 2006 olive harvest is now in the northern hemisphere. Except for a handful of "novello" or just-pressed oils (you can find examples on www.chefshop.com), everything available is too old to give as a gift.

There is a solution: head to the southern hemisphere. Their oils were harvested in summer. They are still in good shape.

I taste-tested four oils from one supplier I like, the Organic Olive Oil Company in Michigan. John Field Reichardt imports oils from both sides of the equator. He has some worth giving ... and keeping:

From Argentina there is Armando Mansur. This oil is like butter, almost sweet — very rich on the tongue, but gentle, with no bite. This is so good with mild greens, and it's definitely made for potatoes.

The same oils I have favored for two years come through again: Lakelands Olives from Australia. Their 2006 Special Reserve isn't for everyone. It smells like bitter almonds and cut grass, has bitter edges, sweet almond, and the aftertaste is like lemon and roast chicken. The other Lakelands is called Frantoio, from a single olive; rich, round with a tart edge.

If you like almondy, mild oil, the New Zealand Moutere Grove is lightly toasted nuts crossed with the scent of green herbs. On cold shrimp with toasted almonds and a little Spanish paprika, you have heaven.

• Armando Mansur Organic 2006 — 250 ml, $12.95; 500ml, $18.95.



• Lakelands Olives Special Reserve 2006 — 500 ml, $38.95; 4-liter, $220.00



• Lakelands Olives 100% Frantoio Variety 2006 — 250 ml $26.95



• Moutere Grove 2006 — 250 ml, $26.95; 500 ml, $38.95; 2.5-liter, $160.00

For more information, go to www.organicoliveoilcompany.com. Another sound source for southern oils is www.zingermans.com.

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