Salt
November 2, 2002

When Cook's Illustrated magazine conducted a taste test of salts, they discovered they are not all alike, although flavor differences were extremely subtle. The salts were dissolved in spring water, dissolved in chicken stock, dissolved in water used to cook pasta, baked in biscuits, and sprinkled onto pieces of roast beef tenderloin. Here's the top three:

Maldon Sea Salt—Maldon England: The top pick has light, airy flakes resembling pyramids that are unique among the brands tested. This hand-harvested salt won the tenderloin test by a clear margin because tasters judged the delicately crunchy flakes to be a perfect match with meat. Available in gourmet stores and by mail.

Fleur de Sel de Camargue—Provence France: The "great crunch" of this hand-harvested Mediterranean salt propelled it to second place in the tenderloin test. In the biscuit test, some tasters liked the "strong hits of salt," while other found it to be "gritty." Available in gourmet stores and by mail.

Morton Coarse Kosher Salt—United States: This "straightforward" salt performed well in the biscuit test, finishing in third place. Tasters generally also liked the crunch of these medium-sized grains on the tenderloin. Available in supermarkets nationwide.

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