Bulgarian Feta Cheese, Tangra ($4-$7 per pound)
The great new Tangra Bulgarian Feta is being imported and distributed by:
Tangra Group LLC (Contact: George Stratev)
11 East 84th Street
New York, NY 10028
917-498-8889
800-249-0272
info@tangragroup.com
www.tangragroup.com

Tangra Bulgarian Feta is available in some stores right now. Call George Stratev to find out if it's in a store near you. I've tracked one store down for you: Murray's Cheese Shop, also in Manhattan. The in-store price is $6.99 per pound, and the price for shipped cheese is $7.99 per pound. There's no handling charge for the shipping. And you have your choice of overnight or second-day (which is much cheaper).

Murray's Cheese Shop
257 Bleecker Street
New York, NY, 10014
212-243-3289 or 888-692-4339
212-243-5001 (fax)
www.murrayscheese.com

Christis Halloumi from Cyprus, Traditional-Style (about $7 per pound)
A cheese that is causing a sensation in culinary circles—it was one of the most talked-about products at this summer's marathon Fancy Food Show in New York City—is Halloumi (also spelled Haloumi). It's a cheese that's popular throughout the Middle East, in Turkey, in Greece—but, thanks to the regulatory efforts of a Cypriot trade organization in the United States, only Halloumi from Cyprus can be called "Halloumi" in this country.

It is sometimes referred to as "pickled cheese," because, like feta, another "pickled cheese," it spends time in brine. But the texture is very different from feta's texture. Think more of mozzarella, which Halloumi visually resembles, and then keep thinking until you've imagined a cheese that is firm but soft, not crumbly, not stringy, doesn't melt much when heated, and squeaks when you chew it. In other words, it's unique—I'm told that working the cheese with warm whey is the specific cheese-making technique that yields this textural magic.

Halloumi is a mild-tasting cheese, with a bit of sheepy flavor. Extra interest comes from the fresh mint leaves that are kneaded into the cheese and from the high degree of saltiness—a degree that some people, truth be told, find too high. But I've got the ideal Halloumi for you—both the product and the de-salting process. The best product I've tasted is made by a Cypriot dairy called Christis, and imported into this country by a Brooklyn, N.Y., company called Trans Mid-East. Trans Mid-East brought what they say was the first imported Halloumi into the United States in 1984, a decent brand, also from Christis Dairy, called Golden Star.

In 2001, Trans Mid-East started importing a superior Halloumi from Christis, made with a mixture of unpasteurized goat's and sheep's milk. It is superb. This one has unreadable (to me) Greek letters on the package, but Trans Mid-East refers to it as "Traditional" Halloumi, or "Village" Halloumi. Buy it if you can!

The "Traditional" or "Village" Halloumi from Christis comes in hunks that are about 12-13 ounces each, and cost about $8 per pound retail. They are available at Greek and Middle Eastern markets around the country, and at some upscale groceries.

You may, if you like, slice it and serve it as it is, along with olives and other meze items. However, I would strongly recommend another traditional serving method: griddled, until it's golden-brown on the outside. To do this, cut your Halloumi into slices that are about 3/8-inch thick.

The secret de-salting process is this: Simply soak the slices in cold water for two hours or so! Dry them, and place them in a non-stick sauté pan over medium-low heat. Cook until that beautiful golden-brown is reached on each side (about 4 minutes per side). Serve immediately; the texture changes as the cheese cools. By itself, the griddled cheese has a lovely, subtle, browned-in-butter kind of flavor, somewhat reminiscent of French toast. But it's also great with accompaniments. I love it at appetizer time with roasted sweet red peppers and olive oil. I also love it at dessert time when it's drizzled with aromatic honey.

Members of Rosengarten's Table, please see "Ordering Information;" Trans Mid-East has several strategies for getting this great product to you easily. Call Rami at Trans Mid-East: 718-492-8500.

For more of David's picks be sure to check out The Rosengarten Report. You can get information at www.davidrosengarten.com.

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