May 30, 2009: The Warmest Room in the House

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This week it's a look at the American kitchen—from the sanitized scientific outpost of yesteryear to today's family-oriented center of cherry cabinets, granite countertops and culinary toys galore. Our guest is Steven Gdula, author of The Warmest Room in the House: How the Kitchen Became the Heart of the Twentieth-Century American Home.

Who but the Sterns would have found a snack cake worth a journey? It's the Twinkie of Michael's dreams at Bette's Oceanview Diner in Berkeley, California.

Wine expert Joshua Wesson is back and he's talking Grüner Veltliner, the centerpiece of Austria's wine industry.

Greg Patent tells how he tracked the great recipes of America's immigrant families while researching his latest book A Baker's Odyssey.

Professor of German Chris Wickham fills us in on Food in the Arts, a symposium of academics from around the world at the University of Texas at San Antonio, and we'll hear the story of New Orleans jazz man Kermit Ruffins and his band called the BBQ Swingers.

Episode Rundown

• Jane and Michael Stern visit Bette's Oceanview Diner in Berkeley, CA.
  
• Joshua Wesson on Austrian "Gru-Vee"
• Lynne and Steve Gdula talk about kitchens throughout the years
• Greg Patent on traditions of immigrant baking
• Professor Chris Wickham fills us in on food in the arts
• Kermit Ruffins and the BBQ Swingers

This Week's Recipes

Fatayar

Food writer Maureen Abood learned how to make these fragrant cinnamon-laced Lebanese lamb and onion pies from her grandmother. Get the full recipe.

Images from This Episode

Grüner Veltliner

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Joshua Wesson of Best Cellars sings the praises of Grüner Veltliner, the centerpiece of Austria's wine industry. This lovely white has achieved cult status of late, thanks to a tasting by top-gun sommeliers that put it up against renowned Chardonnays. The Gru-Vee (the hip name for those in the know) came out on top and has stayed there.

Imagine a cross between a good Pinot Grigio and a Mosel Riesling and you get the idea about Gru-Vee. The flavor and texture is all its own: dry, mouthwatering, minerally, with distinct spice, herbs and an array of citrus fruits all cloaked in acidity. A versatile wine with the complexity of Chardonnay without the wood.

Keep an eye out for these picks from Josh:

• Loimer Lois Austria Veltliner: easy drinking, lemon-lime, tangy acidity. About $12 to $13.
• Schmelz Steinwand Wachau Federspiel: stone fruit, spiced apple, pineapple, papaya, an element of white pepper. About $20.
• Hirsch Lamm Kamptal: a kiss of sweetness with peach, apricot, baked apple, some earthiness. A magical unwooded white for about $30. If you find it, grab it.

Seafood Web sites

It can be difficult these days keeping track of environmental and health concerns relating to fish and seafood so you can make wise choices at the seafood counter and in restaurants. Here are three Web sites Lynne keeps bookmarked for the latest information on what's safe and sustainable and what is not:

www.seafoodwatch.org: a site maintained by the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Download and print a copy of their pocket guide and keep it in your wallet or handbag.

www.blueocean.org: you can text message their FishFone from here. Text a number, enter the name of the fish, and in seconds they give you a short rundown of the fish's environmental and health information as well as alternative suggestions.

www.environmentaldefense.org: among a lot of other issues, they have a fish health alert list for possible contamination problems, a long list of fish that are safe to eat, and details about the benefits of eating fish.