Fromage Fort

Excerpted from Chez Jacques: Traditions and Rituals of a Cook (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2007). Copyright 2007 by Jacques Pépin.

Makes 20 to 25 toasts

Making fromage fort is the ultimate way of using your leftover cheese.

When I think about my father, I can still see the old earthenware crock that he used for marinating his fromage fort, or "strong cheese." Now, my wife usually makes this at the house. I'm sure that our friends are tired of it, because when Gloria makes it she makes a big batch and freezes it in half-cup ramekins. It freezes well, and defrosted under refrigeration can be served on toast with drinks. Alternatively, we slide the ramekin into the lower part of a very hot oven or under the broiler for five or six minutes for a bubbly, crusty, and fragrant appetizer or salad garnish.

1. Put about 1/2 pound of cheese in the bowl of a food processor, add a couple cloves of garlic, about 1/4 cup of dry white wine, and a big grinding of black pepper. Salt is usually not needed, but taste the mixture, and add some if it is needed.

Process for 30 seconds or so, until the mixture is creamy but not too soft, and then pack it into small containers. The fromage fort is ready to use now, either as a generous cold spread for bread, or you can run the coated bread under the broiler for a few minutes to melt the cheese, brown it, and make it wonderfully fragrant.

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