Caramelized Baked Beans

I can't let July 4 go by without putting into print once again my favorite baked beans for the holiday. They, too, are sticky sweet-tart and smoky from practically being candied as they bake with their bacon, brown sugar, garlic and vinegar.

Serves 6 to 8 and doubles easily

You could do this recipe a couple of days ahead and reheat the beans 40 minutes before serving.

• 1 pound dried organic navy or Great Northern beans, covered with boiling water and soaked 2 hours
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon ground allspice
• 4 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
• 4 medium to large onions, chopped
• 1 pound good-quality sliced bacon, chopped
• 1 box dark brown sugar
• 1/2 cup cider vinegar, or more as needed
• 1/4 to 1/3 cup spicy dark brown mustard
• 2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Drain the beans, turn them into a heavy 6-quart pot that can go into the oven, add water to cover them by 2 inches. Stir in the allspice, 2 of the garlic cloves, and 1 of the chopped onions. Simmer, partially covered 45 minutes to an hour, or until they are tender, but not falling apart. Drain the beans, keeping their liquid. Clean the pot.

2. Set pot over medium heat and add the bacon. Slowly cook until it has given off most of its fat, but bacon is not crisp. Spoon off all but about 4 to 5 tablespoons of the fat. Stir in the rest of the onion and sauté them until soft. Add the rest of the garlic, cooking about 30 seconds. Stir in sugar, vinegar, mustard, Tabasco, a good amount of black pepper, and the beans. Add about 2 cups of their liquid, or enough to make a slightly soupy mixture. Bring to a simmer and taste for sweet-tart balance and salt.

3. Bake, covered, in a 325 F. oven for 2 hours. Uncover and bake another 1 hour, or until the beans are thick and look almost glazed. As the beans bake, taste them for more vinegar, and other seasonings. Serve hot. They rewarm beautifully.

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