Pyro's Burnt Ends

August 25,2007

Excerpted from Extreme Barbecue: Smokin'Rigs and Real Good Recipes by Dan Huntley and Lisa Grace Lednicer (Chronicle Books, LLC, 2007). Copyright 2007 by Robert Daniel Huntley and Lisa Grace Lednicer.

Serves 10

Mark Shapiro and his Pyro cooking team cook some incredible brisket and win big money at it, too. This is an all-day prep meat dish that you can cook at home, but you shouldn't attempt it unless you're putting on a shindig for some serious protein fiends. Having said that, brisket is relatively cheap and this is seriously good stuff to ease you into some championship-caliber fodder that will blow your buddies' minds and bellies. Forget the house chores; go for the 3 B's—brisket, briquettes, and beer.

1 whole beef brisket, 15 to 18 pounds
2 tablespoons seasoned meat tenderizer, such as Adolph's
1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 cup barbecue dry rub, purchased or homemade (a recipe follows)
Your favorite barbecue sauce for serving (optional)

1. Build a fire in a smoker/grill for indirect heat. Maintain a temperature of about 225 F. Soak 1 cup of hickory and/or wild cherry wood chips.

2. Rub the brisket on all sides with the tenderizer, spices, and rub.

3. Put the brisket in the smoker/grill on the side opposite the coals and cook for about 8 to 10 hours, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted at the thin end registers 170 F. Apply some of the wood chips during the first 3 hours and half as many for the remainder.

4. Remove the brisket from the heat and double-wrap it in heavy-duty aluminum foil. Be careful not to lose the drippings. Set the wrapped brisket in a large roasting pan. Let the brisket sit until cool enough to handle, 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

5. Be careful to save the brisket juices as you unwrap the foil. Pour the drippings into a glass container, refrigerate, and then skim the fat off the top. You'll need it in about another hour.

6. Place the brisket on a large cutting board. Carve the meat against the grain into 3/4- to 1-inch slices. Remove about 75 percent of the heavy fat.

7. Refire the grill and heat to about 325 F. Pile the charcoal in the center of the grill. Wait until the coals are covered in white ask, about 20 minutes. You will need a small table near the grill to hold the cut brisket and a large empty tray.

8. With a pair of tongs, place about 6 slices of the brisket on the grill. The fat will begin to drip and flame up; a little fire is good to sear the brisket steaks. Cook for about 2 to 3 minutes on each side, moving the meat to the side of the grill away from the flames as needed. Transfer the steaks to the empty pan and continue searing the remaining steaks.

9. When all the meat has been seared and placed in the pan, cover with foil. And now—this is a critical step—take a break, drink a beer, and call an old girlfriend.

10. About 15 minutes later, tell her your meat is calling and get her off the phone. In a small saucepan, reheat the drippings to a low simmer. When the meat is cool enough to handle, about 20 to 30 minutes, trim off all the fat, if you like. Mark prefers to leave a little, to keep it moist. Cut the steaks into cubes and place in a large bowl.

11. Now dose the meat with your favorite barbecue sauce or just the saucepan of meat drippings. You could win prizes with this meat, but go one better—serve it to your family and friends.

Jimmy's All-Purpose Barbecue Dry Rub

Makes about 2 cups

Jimmy credits former River Run cook Josh Grinkler with developing this rub, which works well with pork, chicken, fish, beef, even tofu. Jimmy uses it in all of his barbecue dishes. And it's handy to have on your kitchen shelf to spice up practically any dish—try it on meatloaf or to season soup. Despite the name, don't rub it in, just sprinkle.

6 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons light or dark brown sugar
1/4 cup salt
1/4 cup ground cumin
1/4 cup coarsely ground black pepper
1/4 cup chili powder
1/2 cup paprika
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1. In a bowl, mix all the ingredients well. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place and it will last a long time.

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