Barolo - Traditionalist vs. Modernis
March 22, 2008

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It's called the Barolo Wars, the contentious debate that pits Traditionalist against Modernist producers of Barolo and has wine experts turning themselves inside out. Lettie Teague, executive wine editor of Food & Wine magazine, wrote an interesting article on the controversy for the September 2007 issue. You can read the article at www.foodandwine.com/articles/is-barolo-still-italys-greatest-wine. In the meantime, here are a few of Lettie's "Best Barolo Producers."

Traditionalist:

• Bruno Giacosa: Look for this arch-Traditionalist's 2001 Falletto for long-term storage. About $150.



• Giacomo Borgogno: A well-established Traditionalist with excellent values. The 1996 Riserva is restrained, structured and an especially good buy. About $60.

Modernist:

• Luciano Sandrone: The acclaimed producer of two Barolos. The Cannubi Boschis is the ne plus ultra of the Modernist style but expensive. If you can find the 1989 expect a price tag around $450.



• Domenico Clerico: A leading Modernist and producer of Ciabot Mentin Ginestra, a well balanced example of a single-vineyard wine. The 2001 is about $85.

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