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When serving cheeses so smelly they make gym socks resemble Chanel, forget pouring strong reds or oaky Chardonnays. Wine wizard Josh Wesson says look to Alsatian Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer or German Scheurebe. In a pinch, when his wine cabinet is bare, he'll even pull out a bottle of Olorosso Sherry. He says it's exquisite with Livarot. Here are some bottles to look for:

• Hugel Cuvee Tradition Pinot Gris. About $24.
• Muller-Catoir Scheurebe. About $40.
• Osborne RF Reserve Olorosso Sherry. About $13.

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