Hot Dogs—David Rosengarten Does a Taste Test

August 10, 2002

David Rosengarten, the guy with the finicky palate, the author of Taste, and founder of The Rosengarten Report, travels the world in search of the best. We asked him about hot dogs, which he divides into three groups: The Bologna ("Baloney") Dog, the Chicago/New York Dog, and the Coarse Dog. Here's his top pick from each group:

The Bologna Dog: Schaller and Weber Wieners ($5.98 per pound)

David loves the Old World feel of the company's Manhattan flagship butcher shop, along with their old-fashioned wiener made from pork and beef. It's long and thin and has "crunch" to spare. The natural skin guarantees chewiness, and the well-seasoned meat has just a hint of smoke and a clean finish. They've been making a variety of sausages since 1937. Be sure to ask for "the wieners."

Schaller and Weber
1654 Second Avenue (at 86th Street)
New York, NY 10028
Tel: 212-879-3047
www.schallerweber.com

The Chicago/New York Dog: Lobel's Hot Dogs ($14.98 per pound)

Luxury meats at luxury prices defines Lobel's butcher shop on Manhattan's Upper East Side. The source of their magnificent hot dogs is a family secret, but they did reveal that an 80-year-old Austrian wiener maker in Brooklyn supplies them exclusively to the shop. These dogs are long and thin, all-beef in a natural casing, have excellent "snap" and a great deal of juice. The restrained flavor has little smoke and moderate garlic, but the big meat flavor is right up front.

Lobel's
1096 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10028
Tel: 212-737-1372
www.lobels.com

The Coarse Dog: Edwards Applewood Smoked Wieners

Founded in 1926, this Virginia producer of hams, bacons, and sausages bases the curing and smoking of their meats on local Indian methods. Their wieners, made from beef and pork, are somewhat short and coarser in texture than standard dogs, but the flavor and chew are superb. Edwards recommends grilling, broiling or pan-frying (no boiling!) these dogs. They're perfect on a roll with your favorite toppings.

Edwards & Sons, Inc.
P. O. Box 25
Surry, VA 23883
Tel: 800-222-4267

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