May 2, 2009: Vegan Soul Kitchen

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This week's it's a culinary contradiction, something that's difficult to get your head around: vegan soul food. How can there be soul food without pork or fried chicken? We asked this of our guest Bryant Terry, a gentle food activist that takes the food of his childhood down a timely path. His book is Vegan Soul Kitchen: Fresh, Healthy, and Creative African-American Cuisine.

Jane and Michael Stern tuck into grand greasy-spoon grub at the M & M Cigar Store in Butte, Montana.

Cheese maven Steve Jenkins talks the "stinkers" — the cheeses that separate dabblers from true aficionados.

Writer Suzanne Pirret, author of The Pleasure is All Mine: Selfish Food for Modern Life, stumbles onto the truth of Cervante's saying, "all sorrows are less with bread."

Michael Ruhlman reveals the secret culinary codes only the pros know. His fascinating book is Ratios: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking. And Lisa Schiffman, founder of www.tuttifoodie.com, talks matchmaking for food types.

Episode Rundown

Jane and Michael Stern visit M & M Cigar Store in Butte, MT.
Steve Jenkins on Washed Rind Cheeses.
Lynne talks with Bryant Terry about Vegan Soul Food.
Suzanne Pirret discusses the virtues of grazing.
Michael Ruhlman figured out the perfect pie dough ratios.

This Week's Recipes

Citrus Collards with Raisins Redux

This recipe was the seed of Vegan Soul Kitchen: Fresh, Healthy, and Creative African-American Cuisine and a tribute to author Bryant Terry's home city of Memphis. Get the full recipe.

Runny Cheese Potatoes

This is a simple precursor to cheese fondue, and I don't know of a better combination with a nice bottle of red wine. Get the full recipe.

Wild Mushrooms on Grilled Ciabatta with Garlic Lemon Aioli

This is a rustic, peasant-type lunch. Although I doubt peasants were ever eating this. Get the full recipe.

Michael Ruhlman's Ratio for Pie Dough

In his book Ratios: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking, food writer Michael Ruhlman reveals the cooking codes professional cooks use all the time. Get the Pie Dough Ratio

Images from This Episode

Washed Rind Cheeses

Washed rind cheeses are the ones that separate the dabblers from the true fanatics. Cheese monger Steve Jenkins calls them the "stinkers" for their pungent aroma that either lures or repels.

It's all about alchemy in the making of these delicious cheeses that are always soft and can be at once crumbly and runny. Once the whey has been strained away from the curds, a flavorful liquid (brine, wine, distilled spirits, fruit juice, an herbal infusion) is applied to the exterior then the cheese is briefly aged for a few weeks up to a maximum of two months. In the process the liquid infuses the interior of the cheese with its distinctive flavors.

There are many wonderful washed rind cheeses, but Steve suggests three that are more widely available:

Italian Gorgonzola: imported from Italy's Lombardy region or the domestic BelGioioso brand from Wisconsin.
French Munster d'Alsace
Spanish Extremaduran Torta del Casar

Personal Ads for Foodies

Forget those matchmaking sites that match you by all kinds of silly things like personality, values and religion. For foodie types, there are more important fish to fry�or not if you're looking for a vegan. Log on to www.tuttiefoodie.com for Tuttie Personals and more.

Where We Eat

Jane and Michael Stern: M & M Cigar Store
Butte, MT

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Jane says the in the former mining town of Butte is her favorite bar in the whole world! It's been there for over 100 years, serving up its blue-plate specials and classic greasy-spoon fare 24/7 to an assorted cast of characters. Old timers, cowboys, and former miners rub shoulders with folks passing through on their way to somewhere else. Visitors are greeted with hearty western hospitality and quickly become part of the scene, not just observers.

You can drink around the clock here if you're inclined, play the slots, or have a beer and a chaser with your breakfast. Michael says go for breakfast if you have a choice. The omelets are big, with great hash browns on the side, and the pancakes are really good.

Butte is a multi-ethnic town and the food tends to reflect that. But you won't find much Italian food there. That's because years ago the Italian neighborhood literally fell into one of the open mining pits.