Mexico City Restaurants and Markets

« Back to the Mexico Archive Page

Lynne and our managing producer, Sally Swift, spent a week in Mexico City in December 2008, total immersed in the food, culture and history of this fascinating city. Here are some excerpts from Lynne's travel diary, including markets and restaurants they visited.

The two markets we visited were the Jamaica market and the Xochimilco market. Both are definitely worth the time.

In the Xochimilco market you'll find the Mexican version of a food court, except there's not a fast food stand in sight. Bright with sunlight, filled with groups of white painted chairs and tables that are clustered around different food stands, the food court looks like an outsized 1940s kitchen. Each vendor sets up their braisers for fresh cooked dishes and displays an entire menu. Pick the ones that look clean, with appealing looking dishes, and plan on a very good three-course meal for about $5.00.

Many restaurants don't serve dinner so check before going. Breakfast and lunch are the two important meals in Mexico.

A Geographic Note: Mexico City is divided into zones. All addresses include the name of the street and the zone or neighborhood. Hence, Polanco, Condessa, Centro Historico, etc.

 

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 29 - LUNCH
El Cardenal
Avenida de las Palmas 215, Lomas de Chapultepec, Centro Historico
Tel: 52-55-2623-0402
A Mexico City institution and guardian of regional dishes. White table cloths, peaceful, and elegant, this is where to try ant eggs, pork stuffed anchos, jerked beef in vinegar and garlic, and anything else on the menu. This is also a local favorite for a classic Mexican breakfast

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 30 - LUNCH
El Bajio
Chef Carmen Ramirez Delgado, called "Titita"
Alejandro Dumas 7, Polanco
Tel: 52-55-5281-8245
A must-go for Yucatan food, Carmen's amazing black beans and Carmen herself, a woman who defines "big personality." For us it was a black bean revelation, from the simplest beans served with bananas to fried tortillas stuffed with the beans. Her agua frescas are outstanding, as is her black mole.

MONDAY, DECEMBER 1 - BREAKFAST
Cafe Azul y Oro
Chef Ricardo Muñoz
Cultural Center of the National University of Mexico
Open until 6 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; to 8 p.m. Fri.-Sat.
Tel: 52-55-5622-7135.
Located on the second floor of the Centro Cultural, above the bookstore. Anything Muñoz has on the menu is worth eating. His breakfast hot chocolate is specially ground for him in Oaxaca.

MONDAY, DECEMBER 1 - DINNER
La Mar
Chef Diego Oca
Plaza Loreto
A sleek, modern take on Peruvian escheche.

WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 3 - LUNCH
Contramar
Chef Gabriella Camara
Calle Durango 200, Roma
Tel: 52-55-5514-3169
Modern seafood restaurant with lots of action, fresh takes on Mexican fish dishes and good people watching.

WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 3 - LATE NIGHT TACOS
Tacqueria el Tizoncito Taco Stand
Locations around the city
A must, and costs next to nothing. Taco al Pastor is the specialty here (and everywhere). These are adapted from the Gyros on pita that Lebanese immigrants brought to Mexico. Instead of lamb, thin sliced pork is marinated and pressed onto a vertical skewer. It's topped with a whole fresh pineapple and rotated vertically in front of a fire. Shavings of pork go on little corn tortillas then topped with slivers of pineapple, fresh onion and cilantro. Fabulous. Have beer with lime, grab a tiny table on the sidewalk and check into Mexico City street life.

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 4 - DINNER
Pujol
Chef Enrique Olvera
Francisco Petrarcha 254, Polanco
Tel: 52-55-5545-4111.
Modern and controversial Mexican food. Expensive, very good, but you must eat the traditional dishes before coming here. Then you'll get what Olvera is doing.

Be notified when new recipes are posted and talk with other fans of the show for people who love to eat.
See what it's all about»

Weeknight Kitchen® is a free weekly e-mail newsletter full of new recipes and tips from Lynne and our guests.
Sign up »
This week's newsletter »

The Splendid Table®, is available in podcast form. Follow the Sterns as they travel the country, hear all our unique and wonderful guests and, as always, Lynne takes your calls, downloaded direct to your computer every week.
Get the podcast